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Charroux, the medieval village around forty minutes from Vichy

Published 4 June 2021

Charroux is the only village in the Allier to carry the "Plus Beaux Villages de France" label (Most Beautiful Villages of France), and it lies about three quarters of an hour's drive from Vichy. It easily fills half a day: ramparts, half-timbered houses, some twenty craft workshops and the mustard that made the town's name. Here is how to plan your visit from Vichy.

Getting there from Vichy

The drive is just over 35 kilometres. You can go via Gannat, then follow signs for Ébreuil and Chantelle, or head for Saint-Pourçain-sur-Sioule and then turn west. The village sits on a hilltop: leave the car in the car parks below, as the centre is best explored on foot and its streets are narrow.

Charroux is small. Two to three hours are enough to see it without rushing, which leaves time to add another stop to the day. In summer, come in the morning or late afternoon: the streets are quieter and the light on the stone façades is softer. Out of season, some workshops close during the week, so it is better to aim for a weekend.

What to see in the village

• The fortified gates, including the Porte d'Orient, a reminder that Charroux was a walled town in the Middle Ages.
• The Cour des Dames, a round, grassy courtyard at the heart of the village, and the church's truncated bell tower.
• The village museum, set in the old ramparts, which traces local history from Gallo-Roman times.
• The viewpoint, outside the fortifications: on a clear day, the view stretches over the Limagne plain and the Chaîne des Puys.

In summer, guided tours are offered on Wednesday mornings. Dates change from year to year: check the Charroux page on the Plus Beaux Villages de France website or with the Val de Sioule tourist office before you come.

Craftspeople and produce to take home

What sets Charroux apart from a mere museum village is its open workshops: soap, candles and pottery are made here, and saffron is grown. The mustard maker offers tours of its production site, and its flavoured mustards make an easy gift to carry home.

If you are in the area in early November, note that the Fête de la Soupe (Soup Festival) takes place on the first Saturday of the month: some fifty home-made soups to taste, booking essential.

Combining with other outings

Charroux is in an area packed with places to visit, all within reach on the same day from Vichy:

• The Benedictine abbey of Chantelle, about ten minutes away: our article on the abbey.
• A canoe trip in the Sioule valley near Ébreuil, in summer: see our canoeing article.
• Paléopolis in Gannat, on the way back, if you are travelling with children.

For more ideas for outings in the department, our article Discovering the Allier brings together the main sights.

Setting off from Vichy and returning in the evening

Staying in Vichy means you can visit Charroux one day, then enjoy the parks and the banks of the Allier the next. Our town-centre apartments are close to the shops and restaurants for the evening, bookable from one night, with cleaning and linen included.